Gin Rummy

Aerosoles Gin Rummy (Women's) - Black Leather

Aerosoles Gin Rummy (Women's) - Black Leather

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A playful leather slingback dress shoe with a cute peep-toe and bow detail, perfect to dress-up any outfit. Manmade sueded lining and cushioned footbed provides superb comfort on a stacked heel and flexible rubber sole. Available Colors: Light Yellow Leather, Black Leather.


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World Championship Cards for Playstation 2

World Championship Cards for Playstation 2

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From the publishers of the best selling poker video game brand 'World Championship Poker' - World Championship Cards will offer fun variety of card games to challenge all your friends!


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Crave Enertainment 102247 World Championship Cards

Crave Enertainment 102247 World Championship Cards

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from the publishers of the best selling poker video game brand 'world championship poker' - world championship cards will offer fun variety of card games to challenge all your friends.


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Cards, Mahjongg & Solitaire - Windows and Macintosh

Cards, Mahjongg & Solitaire - Windows and Macintosh

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Masque collection of your favorite card games / Ultimate Mahjongg collection / 760+ Solitaire games / Solitaire Game Builder / ESRB Rated E for Everyone


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World Championship Cards for Sony PS2

World Championship Cards for Sony PS2

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World Championship Cards for Sony PS2


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One of a Kind

Stuey Ungar, the son of a Lower East Side bookie, grew up in a New York of the 1950s and '60s that was straight out of Damon Runyon. By his early teens, he had dropped out of high school and was spending most of his time in the city's under- ground card rooms.


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For information on the cartoon character Gin Rummy, see Gin Rummy

Gin rummy (or Gin for short) is a simple and popular two-player card game created by Elwood T. Baker in 1909. Gin, which evolved from 18th-century Whiskey Poker (according to John Scarne), was created with the intention of being faster than standard rummy, but not as spontaneous as knock rummy.

Strategy

Although the rules are simple, gin rummy strategy is far more complex to learn and experienced players often well outperform beginners.

It is vitally important to remember which cards have been discarded, particularly by the opponent. As cards discarded from the hand may be used by the opponent, it is important to avoid cards that the opponent may be interested in.

Generally, a card should not be taken from the discard pile unless it completes a set or run. For example, although aces are generally desirable cards because of their low point count, taking one ace with only one in hand (called "speculating") warns the opponent not to discard any others. This makes establishing a set of aces virtually impossible except by the luck of the draw.

Middle cards are far more strategically important than low cards or face cards as they can be used in far more sets and runs. The 7 can be used in more combinations than any other value in the deck. Once again, aces, although they have a low point value, can only form a run with a 2-3 combination, whereas a 7 can be used with a 5-6, 6-8, or 8-9, as well as longer runs.

Constantly discarding "from the top" (i.e. from the king down) will soon teach the opponent to save pairs of high cards in the knowledge that the matching set of a run will soon be discarded. Although high cards count more, a good player varies the cards they discard in order to make the discards less predictable and give less of a clue to what they are saving.

A player with a "knock" usually should do so as soon as possible, and not attempt to work to a lower knock or gin. The player should beware the possibility that the opponent can knock lower and obtain an undercut, however. This is common if the game is coming down to the bottom of the pile. In the mid-game (when about half the cards in the draw pile have been used), the decision to knock or "go for gin" hinges on how many "free cards" (ones not yet seen by the player) could give the player gin on the next draw, which could range from zero (all possible gin cards are known to be held by the opponent or are in the discard pile) on up to 5 or so (rarely higher).

The Deck

Gin is played with a standard 52-card pack of playing cards. Aces are played only as low; the ranking from low-to-high is A-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-J-Q-K.

Dealing

Dealership alternates from round to round (the dealer to the first round is usually determined by cutting the deck; low card deals). The dealer deals a ten-card hand to each player. The 21st card dealt, the upcard, is placed face-up in a central location known as the discard pile. The remainder of the pack is called the stock.

The non-dealing player has the option of taking the upcard and playing first. If he or she does not, the dealer plays first.

Play

On each turn, a player:

  • draws either the (face-up) top card of the discard pile, or one card from the stock,
  • may "knock", ending the round, under certain conditions, and (in any case)
  • discards one card from his or her hand onto the discard pile, and

Play continues, in alternating turns, until one player chooses to knock, or only two cards remain in the stock.

All cards in the discard pile, except for the one on the top, are never redrawn into play and are sometimes called dead. Some players use the rule that players may not look through the discard pile to determine whether or not a given card is dead, and that the discard pile should be kept "squared up" to prevent inadvertent access to that information.

Evaluation of the hand

The objective in gin rummy is to improve one's hand by forming melds and eliminating deadwood. Two types of melds exist:

  • Sets of 3 or 4 cards sharing the same rank. For example, 8♥-8♣-8♠.
  • Runs of 3 or more cards in sequence, of the same suit. For example, 3♥-4♥-5♥-6♥-7♥.

Aces rank only as low, so A-K-Q or 2-A-K "runs" are not recognized.

A player's deadwood cards are those not in any meld. His deadwood count is the sum of the point values of the deadwood cards— aces are scored at 1 point, face cards at 10, and others according to their numerical values. Intersecting melds are not allowed; therefore, if a player has a 3-card set and a 3-card run sharing a common card, he can only count one of them and must count two cards as deadwood.

A low deadwood count is desirable, so players usually work to lower it by forming melds and, secondarily, replacing high cards (such as face cards) with lower ones.

Knocking

In standard Gin, a player may not knock until he has less than 10 points of deadwood, and must knock if he has 0 points of deadwood (known as going Gin).

The knocking player lays her hand out with the melds clearly indicated, and deadwood separated. The other ("defending") player has the options of:

  • forming melds from his own hand, and
  • laying off cards from his hand onto the knocking player's melds, assuming they fit appropriately.

If the knocking player has gone gin, however, the defending player usually does not have the ability to lay off.

Scoring

In the United States, the most common scoring system for gin rummy is the 20/25 system of scoring, though the 10/20 system is more traditional.

10/20 system

If the knocking player has gone gin, she scores 20 points, plus the deadwood count of the defending player.

If the knocking player has not gone gin, and the defending player has an equal or lower deadwood count, he has undercut the knocker, and scores 10 points plus the margin by which his deadwood count was lower.

If the knocking player has not gone gin and is not undercut, she scores according to the margin by which her deadwood count was lower than that of the defending player.

20/25 system

This system is the same as that above, except for that the gin bonus is worth 25 points instead of 20, and the undercutting bonus is 20 points instead of 10.

Single match

When a single match is to be played, the players will continue to play rounds until one player has 100 points or more. This player wins the match.

Multi-match

In multi-match games, it is typical to keep track of both match and game scores. Match scores are reset to zero with the start of each match, but the game scores accumulate from match to match, and are ultimately used to determine the winner. A match ends when one player scores 100 match points.

At the end of the match, players' match scores are credited toward their game scores, as well as:

  • 25 game points for each round won,
  • 100 game points to the winner of the match, and
  • 100 additional game points to the match winner if the loser won no rounds.

Rummy Game

Michigan Rummy Game

Michigan Rummy Game

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Now your rummy game can have a distinctly Midwestern flair. Combining the concept of rummy with some friendly wagering and a distaste for 1 cards, Michigan Rummy is a heck of a lot of fun. This handy plastic playing tray and set of chips playing the game a snap.


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Some Content Courtesy Wikipedia.org